The Marquisette sweater is a unique and stylish design inspired by the marquisette fabric and features see-through mesh sections all over. The simple cut offers an easy styling for dressing up or down, and the romantic balloon sleeves add a touch of elegance.

The sweater is worked seamlessly from the top down, making the length of sleeves and body easily adjustable. The interchange between the stockinette stitch and mesh sections offers a nice balance between focus and relaxation while knitting. But most uniquely, a combination of exciting knitting techniques creates decorative edging that sets this design apart from others.

Finished bust circumference: 

• 95 (105, 115, 125, 135, 145, 155, 165) cm
• 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66)''

Designed to be worn with 15-25 cm / 6-10” ease, to fit busts with circumference:

• 70-80 (80-90, 90-100, 100-110, 110-120, 120-130, 130-140, 140-150) cm
• 28-32 (32-36, 36-40, 40-44, 44-48, 48-52, 52-56, 56-60)''

Tag on social media with #marquisettesweater

Note: The product sold here is a knitting pattern in a PDF format and not the finished sweater.

1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8)

• 1370 (1470, 1600, 1720, 1840, 1990, 2150, 2300) m
• 1490 (1610, 1750, 1880, 2010, 2180, 2350, 2520) yds
  
  It's highly recommended to use sleek yarns with great drape as the mesh sections have a different stitch gauge and create bulging. It's a welcomed design element but it can get exaggerated and lose elegance if using light and airy or woolly yarns.

Yarn used in sample (size 2) is 4 skeins of Fivemoons Diana 4ply (50% silk, 50% Merino; 400 m / 100 g) in colourway Bone.

Fingering

Sweater

Intermediate

24 sts & 32 rows = 10 cm / 4''

In stockinette stitch, blocked.

Stitch markers, row counter, scissors, tape measure, stitch holders or waste yarn, tapestry needle, locking markers if using Japanese short rows.

Short rows, increases, decreases, lace knitting, backwards loop cast on, cable cast-on, knotted k2tog bind-off.

The sweater is worked seamlessly from the top down. Back stitches are cast-on, the shoulders are shaped using short rows and then worked straight down to underarm. Stitches for each front shoulder are picked up along the back shoulders and worked separately with increases shaping the front neckline, both fronts are joined and worked in one piece straight down to underarm. Back and front are joined together and continued straight in the round down to the hem. Stitches for sleeves are picked up along the armholes and worked in the round straight to cuffs. Stitches for neckband are picked up along the neckline and 1x1 twisted rib worked in the round to desired length, finishing with knotted k2tog bind-off.